This month’s lesson:
Stitch a perfect bust dart (waist to bust point)
Stitching a dart is easy.
But to have it look perfect, without a pucker at the end, is a small and a very simple trick :)
Read on for instructions of how you can make your dart look perfect!
PHOTO 1: Here is what well stitched dart should look like (waist to bust point):
Notice in the instructions below that you will not be stitching a straight line, rather the stitch will be curved in the end to make the fit a little closer to the body under the bust.
PHOTO 2: Here is what badly stitched darts look like (with pucker on the end):How will you get your dart to look like the first photo above (Photo 1)? Below, take a look at the photo, and then read the description just below the photo. This is what your stitch line should look like.
Notice a straight stitch parallel to the fold at the beginning, and then a semi-circle in the end.
Apologies for the thread colour which isn’t showing very well.
I will use a darker thread next time.
2: the very end of the dart (at the bust)
3: 1/2″ before the end of the dart
4: About 3″ to 3 1/2″ before end of dart #3 (larger bust use 3 1/2, smaller bust use 3) STEP 2:
– Fold the fabric in half, so that the two pins on the edge of the fabric overlap and so that the fold crosses the last pin where the end of the dart will be
– Take out the pin #2 and repin it so that it passes horizontally through both of the fabric layers
– Do the same for the bottom two pins #2 and pin #3
If you are a beginner and if it helps, use chalk and a ruler to draw the line that would resemble the stitch line shown in the photo what your stitch line should look like.
It is a straight line parallel to the fold of the fabric from pins #1 to pin #4, and then a semi-circle from pin #4 to pin #2.
I haven’t done that, and have instead opted to go by the eye.
– Folded part of fabric on the right side, and raw edges on the left side
– The two top pins #1 is where you will start stitching the dart
– Take out the two pins and mark with a pencil or snip into the fabric where the pins were
– Back stitch is stitching 3 stitches, then pressing the reverse button to stitch 3 stitches backwards to where you began at raw part of fabric, and then continue to stitch
– Continue stitching PARALLEL to the fold of the fabric, meaning there should be same distance from your stitch to fold of fabric where you began and keep the same distance from the fold as you keep stitching STEP 5:
– Look behind the machine to see that your stitch is good and there are no tangles of thread
– You will see a long hanging thread which you will cut off at the base
– You will stitch a semi circle from where you are now towards the second last pin: meaning a curved line with the curve bulging out the right side
– This is NOT a straight line, and is one of the important parts of getting a fitted dart for the bust (see the very first photo of what this dart will end up looking like) – please see below photo: Continue to next step now STEP 11: – You are stitching a curved line towards the second last pin #3 (in Pink here) STEP 12: – As you approach the 2nd last pin, you will pull that pin out ever so slightly
– You should be 1/16″ or 1 to 2 millimeters away from the fold of the fabric once you reach the second last pin STEP 13: – from the second last pin #3 to the last pin #2, you will stitch a STRAIGHT line right on top of the fold 1/16″ or 1 to 2 millimeters away from the fold of the fabric
– Make sure that the space from stitch line to fold at pin #3 does not get wider as you stitch towards the last pin #2
– The space should only be getting smaller without running off the fabric until you reach the last pin
Please read the next instruction before moving on
– continue stitching towards the pin LEVEL at fold edge of fabric
– do not pivot/turn the fabric and run off the folded edge, this should have been a smooth running off the fabric as you reached the last pin level (see next photo)
– We do not back stitch at the end of the dart because you will not get a clean finish. Instead we will make a knot. (see next photo)
– If you do not know how to make a loose knot, take a look at the photo again – Place the thread into a circular shape
– Thread goes from the right side, then away from you, then to the left, then towards you and finally the end of the thread towards the right
– the Loose end of the thread should be placed underneath the circular thread, not over the top
– How do you do this:
– Hold the loop of the thread (circular thread) with your left hand’s fore finger and the first finger next to it [not the thumb].
– With your right hand you will hold the loose thread end
– Now, at the same time, spread apart your two fingers on the left hand from each other, and at the same time pull the thread end in your right hand.
– This should automatically force the knot to reach the bottom of the thread at the end of the fabric.
– Repeat the knot so that you end up with two knots on top of each other
– Drafting Basic Bodice – Sleeve Rules-of-thumb – Eliminating gaping for deep/low necklines – Ease Allowance rule-of-thumb – Developing angled Darts